Frangipani Heaven Rust Information

Rust

(A disease called frangipani rust, caused by the fungus Coleosporium plumeriae )

This article is not meant to give answers

It is a compilation of views expressed that may assist you with maintaining Rust on your Frangipani's/Plumeria's

Ultimately the decision is left up to you. Research articles freely resourced on web and permission given where possible

My Comments: Chris ~ Frangipani Heaven

Rust does not kill, it just creates leaves to die and fall off. The dry powdery fungus is very ugly and survives on the underside of leaves, it causes leaves to die and drop. Rust is a most unsightly disease, it thrives in moist, humid conditions. It dies off, or more like it may lay dormant in winter. It is airborne and spreads again via other untreated trees within your area.
It is not present in Western Australia or South Australia, however it seems to have spread to many other parts of Australia, especially the more humid climates. Historically it is believed to have come from USA in 1993.
I live in tropical Australia and therefore to date have controlled mine with daily leaf removal which takes up to an hour each day, I have 1,000's of plants hence the time taken. I bag the infected leaves up and place in rubbish bin. Do not compost!!! This method has my nursery looking clean and healthy during the peak of rust season.
I have not to date used chemicals for rust. One year I used potash from a bonfire, this inhibited rust the following year when frangipani trees on both neighbourly sides still had rust on trees.

Organic methods :

Cornmeal as discussed in thread from Article #2
Potash, which I use, comes from either a local outside bonfire remains or you can be purchased from an Agricultural/Hardware store.
Copper based products such as copper oxychloride and copper hydroxide (sold under the trade names 'Kocide', 'Fungus fighter' and 'Bordeaux') can be used as a protective spray against many bacterial and fungal diseases that affect fruit trees, vegetables and ornamental plants.

I have always preferred organic means but am beginning to rethink this. I have thousands of plants, recently I slipped a disc from removing rusty leaves and getting older, thus my attitude is changing, sad but true. I am thinking of trying a Systemic system. Unfortunately within Australia we do not have the Bayleton granular form (as discussed in thread Article #2). The granular form can be spread around base of each plant or pot.

In Australia we only have the powder form that we mix with water to spray. So much harder if you have heaps of plants and attempting to spray under each leaf is a pain in the backside. A handful of granules placed on top of soil and watered in allow the roots to absorb thus repelling those naughty rust pustules. Done three times a year seems to be an effective management plan to control rust only. Pity it is not yet available in Australia. It is not widely known within Australia that we can use the Bayleton powder form as a drench rather than spraying, which is far more dangerous to us. As it is systemic the roots will draw it up into plant to assist in deterring rust. I am going to experiment with the drench method and use same quantity as suggested on Bayleton product for spraying. If anyone has comments to further assist please do not hesitate to contact me. (Chris). I am learning all the time and only as a combined effort can such information assist all of us. Email Chris Frangipani-Heaven@bigpond.com

First article

This is an excerpt from Colin Campbell a horticulture TV presenter from ABC Gardening, Australia http://www.abc.net.au/gardening/stories/s1653938.htm
Over the last few years rust has become a major problem with frangipanis, and it causes these yellowy orange pustules to appear on the underside of the leaf. On the other side of the leaf it becomes almost transparent. Now, you can spray with a copper based spray before it appears, and gather up all the leaves that fall on the ground and that will help to minimise it. But recently I've noticed some of the frangipani trees have been building up a resistance to rust, so hopefully we won't have to spray much longer. (I do hope he's right, but I have not noticed it)

Second article

Thread from Maui Plumeria forum USA
http://www.mauiplumeriagardens.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8304&hl=rust
Permission given 11th February 2007 by Jennifer Brunner
www.MauiPlumeriaGardens.com

Rust Prevention? Is it possible to prevent rust?

Post #1

I have looked and searched all over the web and this website and have found no real solution to preventing the rust that forms on the under side of plumeria leaves. I have found all types of suggestions on how to treat rust after it rears its ugly head.
I live in the Houston TX area and I have seen rust on plumerias for over 20 years. Now that my collection has reached more than forty plants it seems harder and harder to keep my entire growing area from being infected every single year. This year I kept it at bay until last week (end of August), and it spread rapidly before I could control it (I am in process right now).
I know that rust is a fungis and that moisture and humidity is a key factor. I am hoping that there could be something out there that you put in the dirt or spray on the leaves or spray in the dirt or feed the plant something, anything... There has to be something out there that will prevent this stuff from even forming. We know what causes it, We know how to treat it (very effectively) once it shows up. The next logical step is prevention all together.
If we look at diseases or some other problem, once a disease (problem) is identifiable we figure out what causes it, then we figure out how to treat it, then we try and figure out how to prevent it. By looking at ALL the causes of any particular problem, the removal of just one factor will result in an elimination of the problem.
Any suggestions, even if you have not tried them, please post them here. I am willing to experiment on my plumeria. (just don't suggest I move, I have noticed there are a lot of people in this forum who think they are funny. jj) Thanks MBTX Newbie

Post #2

Interestingly, plumeria notable Bud Guillot posted on the Plumeria Society forum last night asking what this 'funny yellow stuff' was he had on his leaves. This man has been growing plumeria longer than some of us have been out of diapers!! He was seeing rust for the FIRST time (this is in California).
Enerson Willis, another plumeria notable, who lives in your area, immediately chimed in, congratulated Bud on discovering rust, and told him that in all his years of growing plumeria he hasn't been able to get rid of it.
The same goes for Florida which is where I grow mine. Rust is something you live with. We treat with systemic Bayleton two or three times a year and it keeps it down somewhat. But eliminate it - No. I feel better now that I know that Emerson (whose plants are among the healthiest around) also had to admit defeat. So - I'm sorry to say that moving seems your only option
On a better note, I do notice that not all my plants get rust. Some are more badly affected than others. Maybe you can collect just THOSE cultivars that don't get it? Pudica is one of them (and she bores me....) Dutchlady

Post #3

There is help, maybe not total but good results have occurred using the product Hetty mentions. Bayer makes the lawn fungicide granuals as does High Yield.
If you have a large outbreak, I would cut off all affected leaves and pick up any that have dropped to the ground, contain them in a plastic bag(seal) and put in the trash. Even though it is late in the season, I would treat the plants with a good handful of the granuals in each pot or around each plant in the ground. Water in well. Next year begin in early spring with a handful for each plant, treat again mid summer and again early fall. This should help. We live in a very humid climate and it does spread fast. Below is a pic of the High Yield bag. You can get it at Southwest Fertilizer here in Houston. Hope this helps. Karen mystwitch

Post #4

I live in SE Texas between Beaumont and Pt. Arthur and the only rust I've seen has been on plants coming out of Florida. When I get a new plant in from an area that has rust, I always strip those leaves and place them in a plastic bag and place them in the garbage can. I grow organic and I use plain old kitchen corn meal spread thinly around in the pots to keep away fungus in the soil. You can also use a cornmeal juice spray to get rid of the rust. Just mix 1 1/2 cup of cornmeal in a nylon stocking and soak it for one and a half hours. Then, drain the "juice" and spray on your plumies using a regular sprayer. Rosemary

Post #5

I live in an area that gets rust bad this time of year, but I use the technique that mystwitch uses and my plants do not get rust. I apply the product to plants that come to me with rust and it goes away. The nursery I work at uses a very concentrated powdered Bayleton that mixes with water and applies it as a preventive at the beginning of August. It works. -Anthony plumeria_surfer

Post #6

I treated all of my plumies in very early spring with granular Systemic Bayleton. I retreated again in late June and I treated the surrounding ground because one plant out of hundreds started to develop rust. Also sprayed all plants at that time with systemic liquid Bayleton. That was the end of the rust and none has reappeared (yet). I plan on retreating with granular next month as maintenance. Now no more rust but I stated to spray for black spot on the leaves. If it ain't one thing it's another. Best regards, Dennis

Post #7

This morning I spotted Rust had started in an area were I keep this years new cuttings that I've rooted (50 of them). These rooted cuttings never received the above treatment because I did not want to interfere with the root development. So the point is the granular does seem to work. The downside, I sprayed ALL my plumies (6-hrs and still have a few more that need to be done) today for rust to be on the side of caution. Best regards, Dennis

Post #8

Sort of innoculates the plants for about that long. Right now mine are clean and many others I see are getting eaten up with rust. In my opinion it is 100% effective as either a preventative or remedy for active rust. Try it, you'll love it. Plumeriaguy

Post #9

Thanks all for the info, KEEP IT COMING!! First, some observations.

I Have noticed that rust "seems" to start on the oldest leaves first, coincidently some of you have suggested that perhaps the dirt may contain some fungus. Which seems to lead me to believe that the oldest leaves are nearly the ones closest to the dirt where the fungus could be starting. Nothing to back any of this up, BUT I Wonder why the oldest leaves always (in my experience) are the first ones to get the rust. Perhaps the type of dirt, or the amount of watering, or the amount of sun the dirt gets to dry the top layer, or the entire pot or ground covering.
Second, my research shows that Hawaii's average humidity seems to range from the mid 50's to the mid 80's which blows my theory to pieces that california's drier climate inhibits the growth of rust.
However Hawaii's average temperature is generally only in the high 80's even in the hottest part of the summer. So I wonder if the temperature doesn't get hot enough to grow the rust, which could be why I generally get rust latter in the summer when it is in the high 90's every single day.
Hence you need both temp and humidity to achive rust, thus by removing the humidity in California and Hawaii isn't hot enough they generally don't get rust. Please post your observations and thoughts on my theories. Thanks MBTX Newbie

Post #10

My opinion is this: while I agree that rust starts on the older, lower leaves first I believe it could be a double whammy. The older leaves are...well...older. They are closer to the end of their life expectancy and therefore weaker and more susceptible. They are also more shaded by the upper leaves thus stay wet longer from dew (do ya'll have dew in So. Cal?), overhead watering, rain, etc and of course the more humid it is the longer the moisture persists. Which also could contribute to the formation of rust. In general I've found that the plants that are in the most shade get rust sooner than the plants in full sun mitigated by their propensity to rust in the first place. I don't believe that rust is a soil borne pathogen as on a 8' tree the older, lower leaves may be 5' from the soil. Far too high for splash even if I didn't have 2" of mulch around them, while younger plants newer leaves are much closer to the ground, yet all get rust from the bottom up. And of course the south may have more plants that are carriers as well. So many questions, so few answers. It's late I hope this makes a little sense. WILLIAM GILBO300

Post #11

Lol it seems we have hammered this rust topic out so many times.. I been using Bayleton and Plantvax for years...Some of you know that Plantvax was ban and this is why most peeps switch to Bayleton.. I dont' think the rust is coming from the soil.. The key factor is the rust has spores that explode and release more rust spores when touch or rain hits the leaves..
This is why they say put the leaves in a plastic bag...The spores go airborne and will infect a plumie that is not healthy or because of the variety will always get it..
I prove this theory before with a plant i had growing in no soil at all and was on my roof..The plant was a local cvs called Miami Red and it got infected with rust...
Maybe the rust infects certain plants and lies dormant until the plant gets stress..Who knows for sure!

This year all my plumies in the front yard have rust while 200+ different cvs in the backyard are spotless. Many plumies in the backyard have the black spots, while no plumies in the front yard has them. Most of the plumies in the backyard are in pots,while all the plumies in the front yard are in the ground.
The plumies in the backyard are 20 feet away from 3 Big Oak Trees,while the plumies in the frontyard are not near any Oak trees. Took a 6' foot plumie that had black spots all over it and planted in the ground in the front yard a month ago and all the new leaves are clean and no sign of any black spots or rust.
Can't see anything clearing up the already infected leaves with black spots since most of the leaves i rip off have a microscopic hole in the center of the black ring.
All of the infected black spotted plumies in my backyard are plumies that have a natural light colored to the leaves, for example not dark green like a Scott Pratt or Hilo Beauty or the normal green tone like the Aztec Gold.
Examples as follows: Light colored leaves, Dark colored leaves, Confuse yet? Join the club!
You may purchase Bayleton and other heavy weapons here:
http://www.southernag.com/fungicides.htm (USA ONLY)
Just for your info i finish testing Eagle 20 and it killed the rust i had in my front yard.It took 2 applications 7 to 10 days apart to do the job since i had it bad..The infected leaves die in the next day or so after foliar treatment but it made it easy for me to clean the leaves off considering i needed a ladder to reach them anyways. lopaka001

Post #12

QUOTE(Dutchlady @ Aug 30 2006, 05:29 AM) Interestingly, plumeria notable Bud Guillot posted on the Plumeria Society forum last night asking what this 'funny yellow stuff' was he had on his leaves. This man has been growing plumeria longer than some of us have been out of diapers!! He was seeing rust for the FIRST time (this is in California).
Enerson Willis, another plumeria notable, who lives in your area, immediately chimed in, congratulated Bud on discovering rust, and told him that in all his years of growing plumeria he hasn't been able to get rid of it. The same goes for Florida which is where I grow mine. Rust is something you live with. lopaka001

Post #14

LOL that's what EW gets for coming down here every year and registering many of our local plumies! lopaka001

Post #15

Thanks for the Info, I have noticed that my plumies get black spots when close to my trees or other woodsy type shrubs or plants, I have a whole other theory on this as well.
Thank you for some other experiment ideas, I will report back some of my experiments as they come out. MBTX Newbie

Third article

from: http://aggieturf.tamu.edu/files-2005/Turf%20Tips-2.pdf

Names of common fungicides that may assist
Common fungicides for homeowner use
Company Trade Name & Common Name

Green Light Broad Spectrum Mancozeb Fungicide mancozeb
Green Light Systemic Fungicide Disease Control thiophanate-methyl
Green Light Green Light Liquid Fungicide PCNB
Green Light Green Light Terraclor Granules PCNB
Green Light Maneb Plus mancozeb
Fertilome Fertilome Liquid Systemic Fungicide propiconazole
Fertilome Fertilome Halt thiophanate-methyl
Hi-Yield Maneb Lawn & Garden Fungicide mancozeb
Hi-Yield Hi-Yield Terraclor 75 WP PCNB
Hi-Yield Hi-Yield Lawn Fungicide Granules PCNB
Scotts Scotts Lawn Disease Preventer PCNB
Scotts Lawn Fungus Control thiophanate-methyl
Scotts Fungicide VII triamefon
Spectracide Spectracide Immunox Fungicide myclobutanil
Spectracide Spectracide Immunox Plus myclobutanil
Acme Fore Lawn & Ornamental Fungicide Spray mancozeb
Bayer Bayleton triadimefon
Lesco Bayleton System Fungicide triadimefon

Fourth article

Department of Primary Industries & Fisheries from Queensland Government
If you follow this link it will give you full details. (They would not allow me to copy their information without remuneration, however I was permitted to give a briefing and link on the 14th February 2007)
The link takes you to a discussion on frangipani rust, symptoms and control
http://www2.dpi.qld.gov.au/horticulture/17761.html

Fifth Article

Frangipani rust Source http://www.spc.int/pps/pest_of_the_month_June05.htm
Coleosporium plumeriae Pat. (Basidiomycota, Urediniomycetes, Uredinales)
Permission given 24th Feburary 2007 by Dr Jacquie Wright
Please note they quote AQIS Australia will use a CHEMICAL THAT KILLS FRANGIPANI'S. IT HAPPENED TO ME!!!!
(Phytosanitary Measures AQIS requires methyl bromide fumigation for cuttings of frangipanis or transfer in tissue culture)