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Please read the growing hints to ensure positive success of your plants & seeds
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Frangipani Growing Information for plants, cuttings and seeds
If you ordered plants or seedlings they are sent bare rooted and leaves removed to reduce plant stress.
All plant stock is treated with a product named Envy which aids in moisture loss during transit.
Avoid fertiliser for a few weeks till they settle in.
Please give your frangipani a drink immediately, do not leave in water and plant into soil as soon as possible
Keep in shade for about a week, slowly introduce into the sun when leaves begin to appear
Never keep Frangipani's in wet un-drained soil !!!!
My information is based on my experience from years of growing them.
I offer to you what I know works for me.
Growing from seed
I suggest using a good quality seedling mix, easily available at any nursery. A clean sandy mix is excellent.
Place seed into soil and leave the wing above soil line and pinch soil to firm seed. Keep seeds slightly moist, not wet and spray well with water.
Avoid disturbing the seeds. I spray my seeds and when necessary gently water so as to avoid moving the seed
I ensure they grow in good light but not direct sun. They do not tolerate direct sun when young.
Once sprouted which can take anything from 7 days to 2 months, varieties all vary in propagation time. Also the hotter the weather or if growing using artificial means they will grow faster.
Once you see roots peeking from bottom of pot it is best to pot up into larger pot. They can be sun hardened but this takes time. I introduce my one year old seedlings to the sun in the cooler months, gradually they will harden up. You can soon tell if over exposed, the leaves wilt or worse still burn and leaves drop off. However even if leaves drop off so long as stem is still firm and healthy looking they will survive. So the idea is slowly, slowly.
In about a year plant out or just keep in pot. Remember until established in the garden they need to be keep slightly moist, ensure well-drained soil !!
As always stated you have no guarantee that they will be similar to parent flower.
Expect flowers 3 years onwards. This does vary, for example one person had flowers in first year, whereas others have waited five years or more. Their first blooms are not They love any soil, however the best ones are those growing in sandy conditions. They are tough trees and they need little or no care once matured.
Seedlings do grow faster than cuttings; this is one more advantage of seeds.
Winter seed growing
There are many methods used. Heat mats are very common. Hot houses are an option if you can afford them.
One method is an old electric fry pan for bottom heat. Place a fry pan on low heat setting. Insert an old Breadboard, or a piece of wood between the pan and a square plastic container that contains the tray of seeds placed in soil. Secure the lid of plastic container. Occasionally take a peek to ensure that seeds are in well-drained soil and also to allow some fresh air. You do not want seeds to grow mould and rot, always err on the side of slightly dry soil.
It works like a mini hot house and this way you too can grow them inside all year round within your home by a window where there is lots of natural lighting. I personally grow inside using clear lidded plastic tubs with plant lighting and a room kept at a constant temperature comparable to a fine Spring day .
Another heating method is a safety electric blanket with temperature on low setting. Place flat on the floor. Cover electric blanket with plastic sheeting then place poly box on top. Poly box must be completely sealed, no holes in bottom. This method allows for indoor growing. Place in sunlit area or use artificial lighting. I place 2 bricks of peat moss from Bunnings with added water (see packet). I then insert seeds and each week spray with a diluted solution of Seasol (bottle explains all). The rest is history. Come springtime you can introduce to partly shaded area outside. Seedlings do not tolerate direct hot summer sun. Do not keep seeds in wet medium. They will rot, just slightly moist growing medium.
Each location differs depending on your climate and if your growing area faces North etc .Only you can decide what is best for your environment depending on your own micro climate.
There is so much information on the Internet on how to grow seeds; some links at bottom of page to further assist you.
Seedlings
If you have received seedlings just remember to give them a good drink before planting. Do not leave seedlings in water, just a good drink then remove. Plant into a well drained potting mix that has been pre-wetted. Try to only plant root base, not stems. If too tall you may need to stake seedling until it settles in. Firm your seedling in so that it is standing straight and then leave in a protected area from sun until it hardens. Do not keep wet, the good drink and wet soil should suffice, just keep slightly moist, never wet as it will rot. Do not introduce into full sun or it may burn, especially in Summer time. After a few weeks you may allow it to be in part sun, part shade.
How to initially care for your parcel of Frangipani's
If I have sent you Frangipani's that already beginning to root or swelling at base this is called nubbing. This is just a further guarantee of their success, given the appropriate care and your loving care.
The roots do vary in length; size of roots is irrelevant, as mature roots can be small & large. What is important is that they have either proved their growing potential by nubbing or rooting.
If a few roots break off in delivery this is not an issue, they are tough and have already proved their worth by swelling at base and or rooting.
PS: The new roots of a frangipani (Plumeria rubra hybrid) are very delicate and can snap easily. That is the reason the newly rooted plant should not be wobbled or allowed to wobble once planted into garden or pot.
Once the roots have hardened they are as tough as old leather!
As to the depth to plant Frangipani's it depends on the size of the stem. I’ve been told of a person who takes 6 ft /2.0 m cuttings and plants them about 2 ft/60 cm into the ground, for stability, and they root happily. We do feel this is a bit extreme but it shows it can be done. One other point, in Perth they have very sandy soil so the drainage is good. It probably wouldn't work in heavy soils that retain a lot of water. So geographically always take this into consideration. We use 1/3rd perlite for our potted cuttings to allow for healthy drainage.
You may like to half or fully bury the pot into the garden as this allows you to take them elsewhere or rearrange them but most importantly stops them being blown over. You can always have a portable garden!
Growing from cutting
1.Pot the cutting up into either a 6" or 8" pot (15/20cm), depending on cutting size. There are many mixes you can use, we have equal success with 50/50 course sand, potting mix and/or straight potting mix. Or 1/3rd Purlite and rest potting mix. Or alternatively, river sand with potting mix on top few centimeters. Do not allow pure sand on top, they will burn at base. 'Been there, done that', learned the hard way with one of my many experiments.
Water the cutting in well to settle it in the mix and place in a warm position. Well drained is the way to go, if when you water it comes out the bottom of pot straight away, then this is well drained. We mulch the top with cow poo but not too close to stem, thus avoiding stem rot. Keep the mix semi dry, but not bone dry.
Plant them about 125-150mm (5 to 6 inches) deep in a 200mm/8 inch wide pot. It also depends on the size of the cutting. Planting too shallowly makes them unstable and they take longer to root. Do not place a saucer under pot, remember they do not respond to wet feet and thrive with good drainage.
2.Wait for leaves to form, usually if they form and then develop into full size leaves you can be assured the plant has grown roots. It should take around 6 to 7 weeks. Check bottom of pot for white thread like roots. Be careful not to wobble cuttings in the pot as this can slow things down. Do not over water or they will rot. Cuttings seem to strike readily from October to May in Southern Queensland. This will vary depending on where you live, however early Spring in cooler climates may be preferred. I never use hormone powder, and have never considered it as they generally strike so easily. However this is your choice. PS Rooting will vary from one variety to the next. I have some that may leaf up and no roots, others that sit happily and healthyfor months w devoid of foliage & root system. It is the hot weather that promotes growth. If in pots place them on concrete pathways etc as the bottiom heat from this will further aid in growth.
3.When Transplanting rooted frangipani into the ground be very gentle with plant. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the pot and place cutting with all its soil into the prepared hole. Well water in and avoid over watering after initial planting. Keep slightly moist, not wet as it may cause the plant to rot. Remember they are drought resistant and hate wet feet.
4.Feeding your plants:
Frangipani responds very well to any fertiliser. I simply feed ours dynamic lifter,, seasol and potash. Most of the ones on the Gold Coast and Northern Qld would never be fertilised, yet flower beautifully.
However it you wish to feed your frangipani, fertilise before flowers appear, you would have to work it out for your area when flowering season is. The little flower stem called inflorescence or inflo for short arises slowly from the tip of each stem.
Use any fertiliser, whatever is on special. Regular application of smaller amounts is better, than big applications occasionally.
A good ph reading for Frangipani's (Plumerias) is 6.4 to 6.8 (slightly acid-7 is neutral)." This is a quote from Elizabeth Thornton, the founder of the Plumeria Society of America page 29 of "The Exotic Plumeria"
How long do they take to grow to mature trees?
Depends on the species, your climate and its environment. I have two trees that are 30 feet high planted 17 years ago however another variety of plumeria planted same time in differing location is half the size. The weather, soil conditions, planting environment will all impact on growing capacity.
Winter growing of your plants
Within Australia March onwards is the dormant time. This will vary on our individual microclimates
We all have differing climates, mine is tropical and naturally winter for me is totally different to other regions. My knowledge gathered has come from customers' experiences too. The colder the climate the less water you give to your plants, otherwise you are bound to rot them in this dormant period.
No watering at all, excepting when you first plant them. Mind you, if they were out in the sun they would need some moisture to preserve them, rather than the intent of growing further. As for soil I now use 50/50 Purlite and river sand. Great drainage and for some reason they need less watering than standard potting mix. This mix tends to be somewhat denser and will retain a nice level of just moist without being wet.
Even then the water must drain away from bottom instantly. Treat them like cactus plants and DO NOT give additional watering over winter. Keep them in part shade for a week or two. I have guided a family member during winter that lives in Melbourne and they have had 100% success rate, no stem rot at all.
I have transported my plants by uprooting them and removing them to an other state of Australia. The bare rooted stock had roots removed and no moist protection. It took a good 3 weeks for this stock to be transplanted. Stock was soaked overnight in water and Superthrive. They were then placed straight into slightly damp river sand. There was no extra watering given. They rooted quickly as it was Summer time. They survive wonderfully and a tougher than you think.
Where can Frangipani's grow within Australia?
I have sold plants to every state within Australia and seeds only to Tasmania. With the right environment it is possible to grow them in varying conditions.
For example they do well in Melbourne growing in Northerly aspects in areas protected from frost (frost will not kill but prevent tips from producing flowers). In colder climates where frosts are unavoidable they can be grown in pots outside in protected areas. We have heard of people placing poly cups on tips of branches when frosts are present to protect against tip damage.
An example to keeping your new plants warm: (taken from an excerpt off Frangipani Australia forum)
"As your plants get bigger I think they have a chance to acclimatize to the cold but your small plants will be very vulnerable to frosts. You could lose seedlings overnight. Your potted plants will need some degree of protection from the extremes of an Adelaide winter...especially in the foothills. As an Adelaide gardener for many years, I used to put my vulnerable pots under the house eaves on the warmest wall over winter. One night of heavy frosts could undo all your great propagating so err on the side of caution"
The secret with Frangipani's is to have a well-drained soil both in ground and in plant pot. Never allow their root system to be sitting in water. It is not how much you water plants, rather how well the water drains off. If in a pot the water should flow out within seconds.
From our experience seaweed emulsions, dynamic lifter and a good self-draining organic mixture is great. Clean river sand and perlite is another excellent combination.
One can never 100% guarantee that they will do as well in conditions that are not subtropical, or tropical. However, Frangipani's actually originated from desert like conditions and less disease prone in dryer areas. From our experience the further North of Queensland varieties tend to be more diseased due to high humidity, with this in mind Southern areas may well be more accommodating for them health wise.
Pruning trees
Pruning trees is only necessary if you feel it is becoming too clustered, or too big for its environment. Every 2nd to 3rd year of early Spring. Just before the tree starts to shoot, this way when it does shoot it will fill out any holes made from the pruning. It is a good idea to trim any branches crossing over each other.
As for the sap leakage, I never seal a cut. It usually stops after a minute or so. Use lots of leaf mulch, do not mulch up to the base, just near as it may cause rot. Fertilise in early Spring.
May you garden flourish and bring you health & happiness
Chris - Frangipani Heaven
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